The restaurants of Gabriela Cámara are a mix of delicious food, chic decor, Mexican tradition and a topping of human compassion.
Contramar, located in the Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City, feels as if it is somewhere in Tulum.
Somehow I found myself in Mexico City twice last spring after a 25-year absence. Both visits featured lunch at Contramar. It has been open for twenty years, yet it feels brand new and current. Inside, Gabriela Cámara mixed together formal service with beachfront fun.
These tuna tostadas were the best thing on the menu. Along with the margaritas and the aqua del día that is.
The other favorite menu item was the grilled fish served with two sauces.
The rush covered ceiling and the large blue mural prohibit emotions other than joy.
Pepino agua del día. Or for us Americans, cucumber water which is not to be confused with the current trend of celery water. This is actually delicious.
Tacos de esmedregal.
A tropical entrance to the bathroom.
Similarly, Cala has a laid-back atmosphere suiting the Hayes Valley neighborhood of San Francisco where it resides.
Cala has a bit of an edgy atmosphere due to its warehouse setting.
Orderly glass canisters hold Mexican chilis and seeds.
Like Cala, this flower arrangement is a mix of México and San Francisco. Unruly palm leaves contrast with the sophisticated orchids.
Assessing the bathroom design is part of my restaurant critique. Cala made a nice effort with their zig zag cement tiles.
Small touches reminiscent of Mexico – the iron table, flowers, and candle.
This bathroom gets an A due to their attention to detail.
One cooking practice in México is to bury meat in a pit then cover it with hot coals. This sweet potato appears to have received that same treatment. Sea salt and bone marrow negro sauce transformed this simple vegetable into something extraordinary. Consequently, this dish was a favorite of our dining group excluding my husband. He is a dedicated carnivore.
Gabriela Cámara should be exhausted.
Gabriela Cámara outside of Cala. (Photo: Alanna Hale for the NY Times)
Gabriela Cámara advocates for good food and good working conditions for her employees, some of whom were formerly incarcerated. Prison reform is another of her passions. Her full-time workers receive health insurance and other benefits. Because she is now an advisor to the president of México, she has moved back to CDMX. Her focus will be on food accessibility and obesity as Mexico is second in the world for having the highest adult obesity rate. Furthermore, she has a ten-year-old son and has written her first cookbook.
Read more about Cámara here and here.
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